| The Sinai
Peninsula forms a rocky limestone plateau intersected by rugged
gorges, and in the north comprising the extensive desert of Et
- Tih that ascends southwards. The Southern most tip made up of
the massive volcanic highlands cut into huge cathedrals of stone
watching over the wadis deep below. Here the land derives its
grandeur and peculiar charm from the very nakedness of the rocky
heights. In some of the wadis the hillsides are scored by countless
seams of the brightest hues, their fantastic designs producing
an indescribable pictorial effect. What is seemingly the mere
outline of a distant landscape reflects a charming and almost
magical vista as if the bare rocks were clothed with woods or
vineyards, or their summits capped with eternal snows.
Arabia Petræa, Asia, A. H. Keane, 1882
Whilst
the palm trees above you shade your tropical fruit juice and beer
from heating up in the mid day sun you will begin to relax as
the hypnotic sounds of the lapping waves wash onto the shores
of the Sinai Coast. The only thing left on your mind is what activities
you will choose to do next - snorkel, dive, windsurf, horse ride,
quad bike or simply order another drink.
In my mind the main draw to the Sinai Peninsula is for the adventurous
travel that the desert provides, there is world class trekking
and rock climbing lurking behind every twist and turn in the maze
of wadis and mountains.
Back in 2001 I was leading a rock climbing expedition. On one
of the endless sunny days we were climbing by the sides of St
Katherine’s Monastery, I was about to start climbing again
when I felt a tap on my shoulder. I turned around to see a stick
of a man with a broad black-toothed grin. He told me how he would
love to learn to climb, I peered over his head and saw a train
of camels all either chewing, spitting or shitting, or the clever
one was doing all three. I told him I would teach him if he would
teach me all there is to know about the trusty steed, the camel.
From that moment Mohamed and myself have built a great friendship
and both of us have remained true to our words. Mohamed has shown
me that the Sinai desert is truly spectacular; he too can show
you these wonders. It is a simple case of tying your bags onto
a camel and venturing off into the labyrinth of paths in search
of adventure or untouched rock to climb upon.
The
routes around the Sinai Desert are well trodden, many being thousands
of years old. They weave past well-protected gardens that have
been meticulously cared for passed down by generation to generation
of Bedouins. In the spring months the fruit trees are in blossom
and the roots of the trees often spiral down into the deep wells.
The other blossoms to be seen during these months are that of
the opium poppy. It would be rare to go on a trek without seeing
an opium plantation. As you approach the plantations the workers
will keep a good distance, but you would be careless to stop to
take photos or harvest your own opium. For interests sake the
fields are replaced with hashish in the summer months.
As
the canyon sides close in around you, the ground becomes steeper
and you would need to be prepared to scramble amongst boulders,
crawl down potholes and abseil down dry waterfalls. As the sun
sets on a great day in the desert the colour of the rock will
turn from orange through to a deep shade of pink. It is then you
will need to start looking for a camp for the night. Your bed
will be laid out under the stars and on the ground that you’ve
been walking on, and a fire will be lit to keep away the night’s
chill. The early riser would be rewarded with another display
of colour as the sun rises from over the hills of Saudi Arabia.
One of the best places to see this is on the summit of Jebel Musa
(8536 feet).
As your trek comes to an end you would be advised to go back
to the coast to soak your desert soaked skin and tired toes in
the Red Sea or within the local Turkish bath, and then feast upon
a platter of fresh seafood.
I hope from what you have read you are already on the phone to
your travel agent booking a flight into Egypt. You will not be
disappointed.
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